Travel Page

FLY FISHING TRAVELS

QUALITY DESTINATIONS

America has more then its fair share of world class fly fishing hot spots. I have fished many of these special areas over the years including tiny streams in upstate New York, Texas, most of California and other spots to be mentioned in future columns. The State of Oregon situated in the Northwest region has breathtaking scenery and many excellent trout waters. I will mention three outfitters who have reputations for quality guiding and wonderful accommodations. Mac Huff out of Joseph Oregon guides on the famous author Zane Greys secret rivers for Steelhead, trout and bass. The phone number is (541) 432-9085 and the web site is www.wallowa.com/eaglecap. Morrison’s Rogue River Lodge on the Rogue River has been chasing Steelhead since 1946. This outfit is top drawer in respect to experience and first class guiding. Phone number is (800) 826-1963, web site is www.morrisonslodge.com. The third outfitter/guide is Cascade Guides and Outfitters, The Deschutes River and the Cascade Lakes are home to true world class fly fishing. Phone (541) 593-2358, web site is www.hookfish.com. I have over the years heard quite positive reports from friends and fellow fly fishers in regard to these three truly world class fly fishing destinations. The good folks at ORVIS OUTFITTERS have many excellent fly fishing trips available at www.orvis.com or contact Orvis at (800) 548-9548. I must mention once again in regard to my personal guiding expeditions this year. I will guide woman who wish to sample true exotic fly fishing either here in America or anywhere in the world. Those who have followed this column for the last year understand my interest and dedication toward recognizing woman fly fishers. If your not sure of your skill level man or woman. I will gladly advise you on possible fly fishing venues where your limits can be reached. I have written about many lady fly fishers and often find the gentler sex to be skilled and well schooled in the sport.

MY HEART & SOUL LIVES IN YOSEMITE

Those fly fisher faithful who have followed this column in the past year are aware of my personal soul connection to Yosemite National Park. I have wondered around this otherworldly bastion of natural beauty and wildlife for many years. The park is home to several species of trout including the rare Golden Trout, which I have found only in the rough back country on special occasions. Before I begin this months update with a blow by blow account of the last week spent fly fishing the last trickle of the mighty Merced River. I urge those who wish to understand this surreal place in respect to the trout fishery, please access the contents page of this webzine and read my article titled "Trout Take Over Yosemite in The Fall". This work is a fair overview of the cornucopia of fly fishing available to the general public. It has always amazed me that less then one percent of the millions of park visitors each year pursue the aquatic creatures which are abundant and in many cases wild strains. I suppose its a good thing the restless hordes are not carrying fly rods with their little cameras. This trout repository is to my eyes in fine shape and virtually unmolested.

When I thought about where I would like to perhaps catch and release my last trout of this Millennium. It was about as easy as imagining what Bill Clinton’s schedule might be on new interns day ? The park is in bright color Fall foliage and the millions of tourists are all snuggled up to family and friends waiting for that expensive new Millennium Champagne to chill. The drive to the park for me is like a visceral trip back into my fly fishing education. Yosemite and upper California area’s such as Merced River and of course Fall River, Hat Creek, and all points North were my liquid blackboard in regard to fly fishing. This last trip before Y2k was much anticipated because I would be throwing flies at Brown Trout and Rainbows, whose genetic past can be traced back to the gold miners who first introduced trout by way of hand carried buckets. My sweetheart and life partner Dianne Lund and I would be visiting our good friends Dr. Mike Martin and his avid fly fisher wife lady Karen (both of whom have been featured in past columns). We stopped at the world famous Tenaya Lodge located at Fish Camp 1122 Hiway 41. This authentic old world lodge is the place to rest after sight seeing and hiking.

Dianne Lund standing
next Giant Sequoia tree

I must mention two people who were very helpful in getting me up to speed about park water conditions and latest trout fly fishing reports. Tenaya Lodge Marketing specialist Debbie Bryson and culinary dispersalist Mike Robinson spent much time going over latest trout reports. In the historic town of Mariposa just outside the park I got lucky and found a real fly shop called Yosemite Angler owned and operated by Jim Piatto. This guy knows where all the trout within 50 miles will be dining at any given time. The phone number for Tenaya Lodge is 1-800-635-5807 and the number for Yosemite Angler is 1-209-966-8377.I found the following size 22 or smaller flies especially well tied at Jim’s tackle store.

AFRICAN FLY FISHING GUIDE

They glide gently among us mortals as if lighter then air. Spirit barely touching solid ground, one might for a moment imagine these ethereal creatures are but figments of distant worlds unknown!

Upon first contact with African fly fishing guide Cindy Garrison one cannot help but be taken back by her other worldly presence. In these predictably boring politically correct times. It is supposedly off limits to address such obvious manifestations. I plead guilty to all counts and throw my poetic metaphor oriented self upon the alter of ignorance... One must not be fooled by this striking physical presence! Cindy has literally circumnavigated the sporting world on her way to establishing a world class fly fishing venue within the exotic wildness of Botswana Africa. The sights and sounds of Africa are almost as alien to Marin County Californian's as politically incorrect outdoor writers. Thanks to Cindy's father who owned a ranch in Oregon where she fly fished and hunted. Not much time was spent hanging out at any of the ultra swank Marin Shopping Malls trying on new lipstick. Her dad having fathered four daughters and no male sporting companions. Suddenly realized Cindy was up for any and all things outdoorsy. Time spent throwing bugs upon rushing waters of the fabled Rogue River, Klamath and the Williamson River's set the stage. " From the time I was four years old, I was hooked on fly fishing! I loved the hunt- how I could sneak around behind the smallest boulders and drop my Yellow Belly Humpy oh so lightly in the water and wait for a strike- it was so exciting! "

"During the school season, I would spend time at the casting ponds in Golden Gate Park in San Francisco. There I met many legends of the sport and realized I could do this as a profession - I was thirteen at the time and had a long way to go in school- The idea never left my mind." While studying business in college which became tedious and boring. Cindy cut school one day and attended the famous San Mateo Sportsmen's Show.

Cindy Garrison with Tiger fish, Botswana Africa

DIANA GODDESS OF THE HUNT, MOON AND ALL WILD THINGS WELCOMES A NEW SISTER.

Most young woman raised in the lifestyle of fabled Ross in Marin County California. Would probably not attend an International sportsmen show and seek out the Alaska Outfitter who worked with her father. Then query him to consider hiring her for a rough and tumble position like professional fly fishing guide! After spending several successful years guiding all over Alaska. The call of the other last great wilderness with the last remaining herds of old world wild life beckoned... Those who might be inclined to paint a lightweight profile of Ms. Garrison would be better served to understand. She spends the other two thirds of her working year either guiding or hunting with the world renowned Rann Safaris. Within this atmosphere of constant adventure and danger, the strongest men are taxed! Most women would consider African bush work rather demanding. Unless of course you have been touched by and nurtured by The Goddess of the Moon, the Hunt and all Things Wild...

Cindy Garrison with Tiger fish, Botswana Africa.

Cindy Garrison is responsible for introducing the most experienced world class fly fishers to Botswana Africa for once in a life time Tiger Fly Fishing adventures. "Imagine your fishing in Jurassic Park- That's how you will feel fly fishing Africa, You are sure to have the fishing safari of a life time, casting a spell that will draw you time and time again. " The idea of casting to true fighting fish rarely if ever fished? While listening to Elephants and watching out for crocodiles are an interesting and formidable formula. It is easy to close one's eyes and imagine Cindy waving so long as her jet boat departs for parts unknown. While your sitting on a not so large rock surrounded by crocodiles and hippos. Loudly serenaded by troops of screaming howler monkeys and wild parrots. Your only weapon, a seven weight fly rod and your imagination! Are you up for a little heavy weight, extreme fly fishing cowboy? Contact Cindy Garrison at Safarianglers@yahoo.com or rannsafaries@yahoo.com Tel: 267-661-821/ Fax: 267-660-379.

WINTER’S GREY ROBE’S

When the muse moves me to again taste Winters exclusive stream side domain. I think of the most beautiful places, I have watched my hand tied flies mingle with the real thing. Thanksgiving usually finds me drawn to Yosemite’s haunting siren whispering to me. "Come on Dan, its icy cold and the once coursing Merced River is now but a hollow shadow of itself". I seem to be blown by ancient winds back over and over to this river and this place. On Thanksgiving morning at 7.30 am. I stepped into the ice cold Merced River shimmering at a blazing 30 degrees. The water was low and my fingers quickly went almost numb as I tried to carefully tie on a tiny Black Stonefly I tied the night before. I spent many moments taking in the almost stainless steel like grip winter wraps this river in. The colors are almost gone, no flowers or loud screaming birds on this morning. Stream edges were dotted with burnt orange foliage and I saw no fish signs of any kind. I threw to every area and not a shadow moved or trout gave away its secret place. I saw no other fly fishers and the area I fished in was so quiet and cold, it felt like a three-dimensional icy fresco watercolor using only grey monochrome colors. I was in heaven and though the cold was bitter and my fingers eventually failed to move when asked. I cannot imagine a more peaceful stretch of water enclosed in steep rock face canyon walls shooting for the sky...

Just hooked Rainbow on
1st cast in Merced River
outside Yosemite Park,
Dec. 1999.

Perhaps only poets, actors, magicians, writers, madmen and fly fishers are granted secret decoders when perfect moments occur? I urge all fly fishers to sample the cathedral like wonders of winter fly fishing wherever you may live. If you prepare with all the cold weather gear and handwarmers etc. You may find your secret decoder waiting to be activated. John Keats cradled his secret decoder when he said "aching time! Oh moments big as years"! In the morning ice cold, favorite Bamboo rod resting in numb fingers as mended line struggles to forget the tight coils it has slept in. Shafts of diffused light shoot at hard angles trying to steel one more morning before next snowfall. Standing up high on a rock ledge and staring mesmerized as the #16 Mosquito darts with each current pulse. The fly is danced near and under every ledge and stream edge over hang. Winter tippets very thin as the low water and super clarity mean extra stealth and caution are the rule. Standing up high, yet not casting a long shadow is the most satisfying and possibly the closest a human can get to what a cat must feel watching a mouse dart in and out of it’s hole. One’s eye’s become digital radar scanners picking up any movement under water. The first few casts are sad limp attempts as cold fingers fail to remember or care. Then the temperature rises to early 40s and you’re in heaven again. The line flows out fifty feet with ease and your hitting your target almost every time. Now we are rolling and easily covering every inch of each stream area fished. No hang-ups in tree’s, no retying flies after loosing favorite patterns. A sublime moment when a fly fishers life is good and nature allows your day dreams to feel the light of day..........

LAKE MARIE LODGE

I was prepared for almost any suitable accommodations in such a remote area 90 miles East of Anchorage and 50 miles from Mt. McKinley. This is big bear country and the land of too many Bald Eagles to count. It is almost completely untouched if not for the scattered homesteads over many hundred square miles. The brothers Wilson have rapidly become very famous in this remote part of the top of this little blue marble we live on. The Lodge sits on one of the tallest peaks in the area and the view of Mt. McKinley is extraordinary and unbelievable. The main lodge is still under construction on the top floors. The accommodations and the meals are superb. Dave and John Wilson have pulled off quite a magical feat. Large picture windows and perfectly finished wood framing highlight the main cabin dining/living room. Scattered around the lodge are bearskins, bear skulls, fly tying table and all the comforts of home. The meals were so tasty thanks to Amanda.
Contact: www.lakemarie.com

NEW ZEALAND

My good friends Dr. Mike Martin and his equally astute fly fishing wife & partner Karen have Fly fished many of the worlds premier waters. Last year it was off or rather down to New Zealand for a tour of the areas best trout haunts. Dr. Mike is Senior Biologist for California Fish & Game Department. This chap has more talents then Madonna, he and his beloved Karen are quite serious addicts when it comes to trout. They arrived at the
Sportsmen lodge on the Tongariro River, owners Ivan & Judy Nobilo can be reached at 0-7-386-8150. The accommodations are reasonable, less then fifty a night and well maintained. The in the know fly shop there is "The Sporting Shop" Phone # 07-386-8996 for the latest water reports. Dr. Mike is more Hemingwayish then he owns up to as evidenced in his following recollections.
There are two gorgeous streams which tributary to Lake Taupo near turangi (By California standards) The mighty Tongoriro and the smaller, delicate Tauranga- Taupo. One is fished blind with large river steel head tactics. The other smaller stream has holding water, clear waters, where fish are spotted. On the first day we went to the Tauranga- Taupo... nobody was fishing the bar riffle into the lake. Drove downstream about two kms, walked about 600 yards of river and spotted two nice fish 8-10 pound class - so the juices ( and the wine ) were flowing. There was a real stiff wind blowing, so that was a worry. Off to bed with visions of silvery "Bows" in our heads! " Early that day they got this advise from locals.

There are fish in the rivers in some numbers, but the rivers down because of El Nino "But a good guy can catch a nice fish". On the next day fishing Lonely and the Groin tributaries was like fishing the dam Trinity River in Mid - Winter! - Got the casting down, with a five weight Sage and fast sink tip, using florescent egg fly (others were using PTs and Hares Ear patterns). Flogged the water for about five hours without a bump. Home for afternoon tea

The next afternoon all hell broke loose, we went back to where we spotted the two good fish at Taurangi-Taupo. No dice for first two hours, wind was ferocious. We had to cast down wind, down stream or sail it near river banks, a real challenge. We spooked about 7 nice trout, no one else fishing but us. Twenty minutes before Sunset working the run near where our car was parked and thinking this is about where we spotted the good fish. Well since it was light and so flat (had my clear lenses on). Said to myself - I'll just float this baby over to where that fish was the day before and see what happens? Strike indicator on surface (Have to use special Lake Taupo indicators which are bushy and very strange) Strike indicator stops! Hook up. FISH ON! I'm yelling and hooting - Karen is 200 yards down stream and making tracks toward me like I'm on fire. This is a seriously nice trout - I'm stoked. This is nirvana- and well worth the swim across the Pacific. This genetic cousin of mine from California is wilder and feistier then I remember my last Owens River Rainbow. He reels off 30 yards and starts on the backing. Then does a 180 and decides upstream is better. I get him calmed down and he comes to me with little further fight in about ten minutes. I then gently remove hook and ease him back into the ice cold waters. Back to the lodge for venison and a delightful New Zealand Pinot Blanc." The area fished is unspoiled and too pretty (see photo ) Another quality fly fishing experience can be had on Mohaka River - cabins are rustic, but well kept - contact Riverland Outback Adventure, RD2 Napier, NZ: Phone (06)834-9756 or Lake Waikaremoana in the Urewaera National Park (64) 6837-3803. By the size of these fish and the many varied waters, this sounds like a grand adventure. The good news is its not very expensive, check it out.

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